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Crack repair methods in the days of Model T and Model A Fords.

From the 1928 book The Ford Model A Car: Construction, Operation, Repair by Victor Page.

“Repairing A Cracked Water Jacket: The water jacket of the Ford engine cylinder block will sometimes become cracked due to freezing of the cooling water or perhaps as the result of a sand or blow hole which opens up from vibration after the cylinder has been used awhile. At the present time, the usual practice in repairing cylinders is to fill the depression or crack with iron by autogenous welding process, al-though various iron cements may be used to that purpose if the fracture is not serious. A mechanical repair is always possible, i.e. a metal patch can be applied to cover the crack and held in place against a gasket interposed between the plate and the cylinder jacket by small machine screws tapped into the iron.

Mechanical Method: If the crack is of some length it may be repaired by the following method: On the line of the fracture, drill and tap for a 3/8 inch threaded copper rod. The rod is screwed in firmly to a depth about equal to the thickness of the metal in the water jacket. Cut off the copper rod with a hacksaw, allowing it to project about 1/32 inch, then drill succeeding holes, each being drilled partly into the previously inserted copper plug, so that when all the plugs are placed in the cylinder casting, they form a continuous band of copper along the fracture. The copper plugs should be peened down and trimmed off flush. The only possible chance for leakage, after having repaired the crack in this manner, is for the water to follow the joint between the metal of the jacket and the copper plugs, but as the copper rods are threaded into the casting, it is not likely to occur. Should leakage take place, a little extra peening will suffice to prevent it. The copper surface can be cleaned and tinned with solder as an added precaution.”